’The 2022s are some of the most memorable young wines I have ever tasted in Bordeaux. The best 2022s are magnificent, viscerally thrilling wines that show what is possible with thoughtful approaches to viticulture and winemaking. A number of properties at all levels made their best wines ever. But 2022 is not consistently great from top to bottom, so some selection is warranted.’
In short, much of 2022 can be explained by four factors:
1. Heat and drought started early and were constants throughout the year, rather than shock events.
2. The end of the growing season saw cool nights, which is always beneficial in preserving freshness.
3. Technical Directors have become far more accustomed to dealing with very warm, dry years.
4. Knowhow in the vineyard and technology in the cellar have advanced meaningfully over the last twenty years, giving winemakers the tools to make decisions that were simply not available in the past.
THE HARVEST
Many estates reported very long harvests, some of the longest ever. That may seem counterintuitive because, in warm years, the more common scenario is that everything ripens quickly and at the same time. “It was our longest harvest ever, four weeks instead of the more typical two,” Bruno Borie told me at Ducru-Beaucaillou. “Our yields were 30 hectoliters per hectare, down from the 35-37 that is the new normal.”
IN THE CELLARS
I have written before about the importance of small fermentation tanks in precision winemaking. These are now standard in every new winery in Bordeaux but have been common in other places like Napa Valley for some time. Smaller tanks allow winemakers to pick only what is optimally ripe at any given moment, whereas in the past, logistics required picking specific volumes to fill much larger vats. In a year when waiting for optimal phenolic ripeness was key, patience and technology were critical.
THE TASTINGS
But it is in tasting that the wines surprise most. Given the warm, dry conditions, I expected to find rich, opulent wines in the style of other warm years, like 2009 or 2018. Far from it. The best 2022s combine flavor intensity, energy and finesse in a way that I can only describe as magical. I use that word because no one has a concrete explanation of why the wines turned out the way they did. With some exceptions, the 2022s are generally not big, imposing wines, but instead deliver notable depth and freshness without excess weight. Have the vines truly adapted to the new climate change era? Has learning progressed so meaningfully that even challenging vintages can be harnessed into wines of elegance? Or maybe it was the lack of shocks that was so key. No one really knows. One thing that seems pretty clear is that the 2022s suggest that the scenario for high-end viticulture and winemaking in the future is not so gloomy as some have predicted.
The Most Exciting Wines of 2022
Readers certainly don’t need me to tell them that many top-flight properties turned out exceptional wines in 2022. I thought it would be more interesting to list wines that overachieve the quality of the year. Some of these are less well-known, while others enjoy a higher profile. Many of them got their highest scores ever from me. All of them have that extra je ne sais quoi that makes them special.
Alter Ago – The Grand Vin usually gets most of the attention at Palmer, but I found Alter Ago, especially charming this year.
Beau-Séjour Bécot – An example of a wine that might be the best yet here.
Brane-Cantenac – A fabulous showing from Henri Lurton and his team.
Clos Puy Arnaud – Once again, Clos Puy Arnaud challenges wines from far more prestigious appellations. Superb.
Clos Saint-Julien – A tiny jewel in Saint-Émilion and a memorable 2022.
Figeac – Figeac has been knocking on the door of the most elite Bordeaux wines for some time. The 2022 is truly magnificent.
Forts de Latour – Although it is not sold en primeur, Forts de Latour deserves a mention, as it is terrific.
Giscours – Another very strong showing from one of Bordeaux’s up-and-coming stars.
La Conseillante – It all comes together for La Conseillante in 2022. Superb.
La Gaffelière – The 2022 might be the best La Gaffelière in modern times. Unforgettable.
Lafon-Rochet – One of Bordeaux’s under-the-radar gems is fabulous in 2022.
Larcis Ducasse – A wonderful showing from what might be the single most under-the-radar property in Bordeaux.
Léoville Las-Cases – An epic Las Cases. There’s nothing more to say.
Le Pin Beausoleil – A stellar 2022 that won’t break the bank. I loved it.
Les Carmes Haut-Brion – I look forward to tasting the 2022 next to the 2020 for many years to come. Tremendous.
Malartic Lagravière – One of the best young vintages I can remember tasting.
Moulin Saint-Georges – A gorgeous, affordable gem from the Vauthier family.
Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande – It’s all class and finesse in the 2022. A masterpiece.
Puyblanquet – The sublime, delicate side of Saint-Émilion.
Quinault L’Enclos – Maybe the best Quinault I have tasted.
